A: Yes it comes complete with the ball joint kit.

A: No, at present we do not offer polyurethane bushes suitable for Pro Comp ES9000 dampers. Pro Comp use a different shape bush to the standard LR ones. We may well offer a polyurethane version in the future. It's worth noting that ES3000 dampers that we sell for Series vehicles will accept regular 552819 bushes so the poyurethane version (552819P) are suitable.

A: We stock lots of lights suitable for this lightbar. Take a look at WIPAC in the brands section of this site. We would probably recommend the S6015. They fit great and they're stainless.

A: It is Ivory White.

A: These seats are easy to fit. You can easily reach under the arch to fit without having to jack the vehicle or crawl underneath. The belts we would recommend would be SEC210 lap belts.

A: Yes it is compatible with all 'Hi-Lift' brand jacks. Please note it is not compatible with other cheaper high lift style farm jacks.

A: Yes they are included.

A: Yes, all water pumps we sell come with their relevant gasket or O ring.

A: Yes that is exactly what you'd do.

A: No as there are various options.... aftermarket, OEM, polyurethane. The part numbers to search are NTC1772 and NTC9027 (STC618).

A: Yes it is 'e-marked' and stamped with it's load capacity.

A: Brake pads are always supplied as a set of 4 pads to do a complete axle.

A: Yes they come with the nuts required to fit the spacers to the vehicle. You use your existing wheel nuts to mount your wheels to the spacers.

A: Standard LR springs are handed. The right hand side is slightly heavier duty to the fuel tank (and in UK cases the driver!). However, most parabolic manufacturers do not differentiate between LH and RH.

A: Yes we do. We've seen various manufacturers of parabolics and they've always used standard LR bushes for the rears. Part number is 548205. Take a look at your front paras. They may well also use 548205 (like our British made ones). Some of the Indian manufactured paras such as Britpart & Bearmach use a larger non LR bush on the fronts.

A: You get 2. In other words the kit does both ends of the axle.

A: Yes you are correct. However, the SWB variety fits perfectly as they fix to the rear crossmember (which is the same for SWB & LWB).

A: Yes they fold up.

A: Yes they are vinyl. Sorry we don't do leather.

A: Defender door mirrors come as singles. They aren't handed, you simply turn the head around 180 degrees.

A: No. Both PM109 and PM012 are only suitable for 3 door vehicles that have a bulkhead behind the driver and passenger seats. If you have a 5 door safari vehicle you require STC7555 Dog Guard.

A: Yes we do. The part number of the grey version is PM012.

A: The part numbers of the of the bushes you require for fitting a pair of these radius arms are NTC7307 x 4 (axle end) and NRC4514 x4 (chassis end). Yes you can buy in polyurethane. Simply search for the part number with a 'P' on the end.

A: Yes this snorkel will also fit a Puma (Defender 2007 onwards) with no problems at all.

A: No it won't. At present (23/06/11) the only cubby box we sell suitable for a Puma is the Mantec Security Box PM044.

A: GRP stands for Glass Reinforced Plastic.

A: Yes it will fit all Defender TD5 - with or without aircon.

A: Yes they will. They are listed as front because as far as we are aware Land Rover haven't used clear indicators on the rear....but there's nothing to stop you!

A: Yes they do.

A: No you don't need to change the flange. The flanges on both ends of this propshaft are standard Defender fitment.

A: No we only supply doors primer coated ready for you to paint whichever colour you require.

A: Yes it comes complete with stainless steel screws, washers and nyloc nuts.

A: They are 'weld on' parts.

A: Yes they are supplied as pair.

A: A common fault with these boxes is a thrust washer in the 1 - 2 synchro assembly splitting in half and blocking movement. Rebuild the gearbox and replace both thrust washers in the 1 - 2 assembly.

A: We recommend ATF Dextron 2 or 3.

A: This is very common on Diesel engined vehicles. The clutch friction plate has a ring of springs, which are there to soften the knock of the diesel engine to stop it being transmitted to the driveline. Often especially with a new clutch these springs are quite tight and a lot of the engine knock goes through to the gearbox and makes the gears "chatter" together when the box is in neutral and the clutch up, it goes when the clutch is depressed. This can sound quite bad and does vary from car to car but is not detrimental to the life of the gearbox and we view it as an undesirable characteristic of the LT 77 and R 380 as opposed to a fault with either the gearbox or the clutch.

A: When you let go of the gearstick on either the LT77 or the R 380 Discovery boxes the stick will spring to the 3 / 4th gate. This gate position is set by the position of the bias plate. This gate position must be adjusted correctly to agree with the selectors in the gearbox to ensure a good gearshift. When we rebuild the boxes we set this position but sometimes it needs fine tuning when in the car. If the shifts to 3rd and 4th are not clean you may want to adjust this plate, to do this first you must drive the vehicle but when shifting into 3 and 4 instead of letting the gearstick go where it wants to go try holding it a little to the left then a little to the right, one way or the other it will drop in nicer. When you have worked this out you can slacken the 4 screws holding the plate and move the plate left or right accordingly to improve the shifts, the holes are elongated to allow some movement.

A: The best way of ascertaining the degree of wear is to chock the two front wheels, handbrake off, mainbox in first and jack up a rear wheel. Remove the PTO cover to the left of the handbrake and you will be able to see the gearbox mainshaft in the centre and the transfer case input gear around it. By rocking the handbrake drum you will be able to rock the gear around the shaft thus getting some idea of wear / backlash between the two.

A: Most rebuilt gearboxes, including ours, come without the "turret". This the part that the gearstick bolts to. If you pull back the rubber boot on the turret you will reveal two large springs and two adjuster screws and locknuts. The role of these springs and screws is to set the rest position of the gearstick when you let go of it and is referred to as the 3/4 bias setting. When you fit a new gearbox this can sometimes need adjusting to agree with the selector shafts to ensure a clean gearshift. Firstly you need to work out which way to adjust it, to do this drive the vehicle but when shifting into 3 and 4 in stead of letting the gearstick go where it wants to go try holding it a little to the left then a little to the right, one way or the other it will drop in nicer. When you have worked this out you can adjust the screws the springs are resting on to lean the stick left or right until it shifts better.

A: Inside the aluminium top cover of the gearbox, which is secured by two large Phillips head screws, you will find two large springs which rest on a L shape steel plate which give your 3rd/4th bias gate position. This L shaped plate is very prone to cracking off where it is bent which will result in you losing the 3rd/4th rest position when in neutral and thus the shifts will become vague. This plate is inexpensive and can be changed with gearbox in situ.The part number of this Bias plate is FRC9340.

A: Yes they are suitable for LHD & RHD vehicles.

A: Yes they are always supplied a pair when there is a pair on your vehicle. Obviously bonnet protectors and rear crossmember protectors are individual!

A: Yes it is suitable for Left Hand Drive and Right Hand Drive vehicles.

A: Standard will fit without problems.

A: No they won't fit Disco 2, Salisbury, or P38. For Disco 2 we recommend PM1133.

A: No. You are not required to change shock absorbers at the same time.

A: Yes, it fits both LHD and RHD.

A: Yes they come with wheel nuts.

A: A common fault with these boxes is a thrust washer in the 1 - 2 synchro assembly splitting in half and blocking movement. Rebuild the gearbox and replace both thrust washers in the 1 - 2 assembly.

A: We recommend ATF Dextron 2 or 3.

A: This is very common on Diesel engined vehicles. The clutch friction plate has a ring of springs, which are there to soften the knock of the diesel engine to stop it being transmitted to the driveline. Often especially with a new clutch these springs are quite tight and a lot of the engine knock goes through to the gearbox and makes the gears "chatter" together when the box is in neutral and the clutch up, it goes when the clutch is depressed. This can sound quite bad and does vary from car to car but is not detrimental to the life of the gearbox and we view it as an undesirable characteristic of the LT 77 and R 380 as opposed to a fault with either the gearbox or the clutch.

A: When you let go of the gearstick on either the LT77 or the R 380 Discovery boxes the stick will spring to the 3 / 4th gate. This gate position is set by the position of the bias plate. This gate position must be adjusted correctly to agree with the selectors in the gearbox to ensure a good gearshift. When we rebuild the boxes we set this position but sometimes it needs fine tuning when in the car. If the shifts to 3rd and 4th are not clean you may want to adjust this plate, to do this first you must drive the vehicle but when shifting into 3 and 4 instead of letting the gearstick go where it wants to go try holding it a little to the left then a little to the right, one way or the other it will drop in nicer. When you have worked this out you can slacken the 4 screws holding the plate and move the plate left or right accordingly to improve the shifts, the holes are elongated to allow some movement.

A: The best way of ascertaining the degree of wear is to chock the two front wheels, handbrake off, mainbox in first and jack up a rear wheel. Remove the PTO cover to the left of the handbrake and you will be able to see the gearbox mainshaft in the centre and the transfer case input gear around it. By rocking the handbrake drum you will be able to rock the gear around the shaft thus getting some idea of wear / backlash between the two.

A: Most rebuilt gearboxes, including ours, come without the "turret". This the part that the gearstick bolts to. If you pull back the rubber boot on the turret you will reveal two large springs and two adjuster screws and locknuts. The role of these springs and screws is to set the rest position of the gearstick when you let go of it and is referred to as the 3/4 bias setting. When you fit a new gearbox this can sometimes need adjusting to agree with the selector shafts to ensure a clean gearshift. Firstly you need to work out which way to adjust it, to do this drive the vehicle but when shifting into 3 and 4 in stead of letting the gearstick go where it wants to go try holding it a little to the left then a little to the right, one way or the other it will drop in nicer. When you have worked this out you can adjust the screws the springs are resting on to lean the stick left or right until it shifts better.

A: Inside the aluminium top cover of the gearbox, which is secured by two large Phillips head screws, you will find two large springs which rest on a L shape steel plate which give your 3rd/4th bias gate position. This L shaped plate is very prone to cracking off where it is bent which will result in you losing the 3rd/4th rest position when in neutral and thus the shifts will become vague. This plate is inexpensive and can be changed with gearbox in situ.The part number of this Bias plate is FRC9340.

A: Yes it will fit your vehicle no problem. It is supplied 'built up' and also includes head bolts. The only extra items you need to purchase are a new style head gasket LVB500220 and a head gasket set STC2802 or STC2802G.

A: Yes we do. The left hand thread joint is QFS000010. The right hand thread joint is PM1029.

A: No it isn't. The part number for the nut is CDU1534L.

A: Yes it does.

A: Sorry but we do not sell 2 inch lifts for P38. We recommend you contact http://flatdoguk.com/

A: They have adhesive strips attached.

A: Yes, comes complete - bulb holders, bulbs, and cables with connector.

A: No sorry we do not sell hub caps for modular or eight spoke steel rims.

A: No they are not compatible. The only allow we know that they are compatible with are the ZU alloys.